Hang on to Your Hat!

The weather over the last few days has been much better with thin, high cloud taking the edge off the heat so that the temperature has been in the range 25° to 30°. This has been much better for cycling.

As we left Vukovar on Tuesday morning the cloud was a little thicker which meant that the sun cream that we had applied was superfluous. We went past the water tower which is being kept in its war damaged state as a reminder of the terrible times twenty years ago.

The water tower in Vukovar.
The water tower in Vukovar.

The road south was not particularly pleasant being quite busy with fast traffic and slightly undulating. This was not what we were used to! After about 20 km we reached a junction and thankfully a large part of the traffic went the other way to us. However, the hills got steeper with short sharp descents into the villages followed by similar ascents. Christine walked up these while Stephen ground away slowly up the 8% inclines.

As we approached Ilok, where the route crossed the river into Serbia, Christine started to feel a little under the weather, not helped by the fact that it was warming up as the sun had burnt off most the clouds. We decided to aim for the campsite in Ilok’s twin town across the river, Backa Palanka, rather than the one 20 km further on.

The border crossing was quite a novel experience as our passports were inspected by both sides and the Serbian even stamped them! As we crossed the river in “nomansland” we saw a distance sign on the river saying 1297 km to the mouth.  It  was then a short ride into town to find a bank to avoid a repetition of the “money troubles” described in the previous post. As we expect to be on Serbia for around 10 days the amount of the initial withdrawal was less vexing.

With the means of paying our way safely stowed in our wallets we headed back towards the river to find the campsite. When we arrived at the place indicated in the guidebook there was no sign of a formal campsite but a young man explained that it was permissable to camp under the trees by the river. No campsite fees will certainly help to offset the cost of two consecutive nights in hotels in our budget calculations!

As another change in the weather was under way with black clouds heading towards us we quickly erected the tent. Just after this was completed the wind started to blow very strongly making the tent flap loudly. All the bathers who had been enjoying the adjacent lake disappeared in an instant.

As we write this two hours after arriving the wind on billowing around and the temperature has dropped about 10° but there has been no rain – so far!


  1. I can’t believe how far you have gone and you always seem totally relaxed and chilled. Sounds like a lovely trip so far. Keep the posts coming.

    1. We have only gone a long way because we have been going for more than 10 weeks now! Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey. If we were keeping to our original guesstimated schedule we would be arriving at the Black Sea tomorrow. As we crossed into Serbia we saw a sign indicating the river still has 1297 km to go!

      And, when we running short of Croatian money, I can assure you that, inside at least, things were getting a little fraught!

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